Timing Belt Change -- Page 5
Replacing Cam Seals & Alternator
Replacing PCV Valve
Waterpump and Thermostat
Replace Timing Belt and ReAssembly
Timing Belt Change -- Page 2
Timing Belt Change -- Page 3
Timing Belt Change -- Page 4
Changing the Spark Plugs
Timing Belt Change -- Page 1
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Mitsubishi 3.0 SOHC Engine

Changing the Timing Belt -- Page 3

Now we will remove the engine drive belts. At this point, you should have already "bumped" the starter to loosen the crankshaft pulley. The main 6-rib drive belt needs to be on for this part. The smaller 4-rib v-belt only drives the A/C compressor and can be removed early.


To remove the A/C belt, loosen the tensioner pulley bolt. Then use a socket on the top bolt to allow the pulley to move up or down. Remove the belt.


Here is a view of the A/C bracket, tensioner pulley and crank pulley from below. Note the main crank pulley has two parts, the outer one for the 4-rib belt and held on by a few bolts.

Note also in this picture from below the location of the A/C belt tensioner pulley. This pulley and its small bracket both need to be removed later if you want to pull the A/C bracket.


Now remove the main accessory belt (6-rib) from the alternator, power steering pump and the crankshaft. This belt is held in place by an automatic tensioner. You loosen it by attaching a socket or other appropriate tool and rotating the bolt clockwise (towards the front of the engine).

A standard socket wrench is hard to get in there. Better is one of those tensioner tools from the car parts store. The alternator is on top in this photo.


Here is a view of the main accessory belt from below. In this picture, the large belt goes around the crank pulley (right) and power steering pulley (left). The belt then changes direction with the flat portion feeding on the inside of the idler pulley (top R) and the automatic tensioner (top L).

This photo also shows a good view of the large crankshaft bolt (on the right).


This is a good time to remove the A/C pulley from the main crankshaft pulley. It is held on by 6 small bolts. You can also take this off before removing the larger belt. If not, then a strap wrench (shown) will do.


With the belts removed, it is now time to remove the front engine mount. Don't panic. This would be the time to make sure that your car is supported under the front end by two heavy-duty jackstands, and that you have a set-up for supporting the engine.


The front engine mount is easy to access and remove. First remove the idler pulley (part of the main accessory belt route), which sits on top of the mount (see below). Then remove the 5 bolts holding the mount to the engine bracket and engine (one is just to the right of the idler pulley). Two are long and three are short. Keep track of them.

This view shows the idler pulley and engine mount from below.


Now a view from the top. Remove the two bolts that hold the engine mount to the frame (arrows). As you remove the mount, it should come smoothly. To ensure that the mount is not carrying any weight of the engine during removal, lift the engine up slightly using the bottle jack or equivalent just before you start to remove the mount.


The 5 front engine mount bolts can be seen in this picture as it mounts on the engine support bracket.


Now on to removing the engine bracket and the timing covers.

Timing Belt Change -- Page 4

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